Saturday, April 12, 2008

Hueco Tanks Spring Break '08

Tuesday, Justin and I had a few days to jump back down to Hueco during Spring Break. Since Tuesday STILL doesn't have a driver's license, Justin and I had share the 22 hour drive, all night. Then we rolled up to the gate around 8am and walked on to North Mountain! So, here's what Tuesday did...

Crimpy start to B Flat (V4)

Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive (V2)

... and here's what Justin and I did...


The day was actually really productive. Tuesday and Justin sent their first V3 in the Park, suedo Right. I got Psuedo Feather Left (V4), which had given me trouble on our last trip. Justin also onsighted Nobody Getes Out Of Here Alive, which was really fun to watch. We also romped around and showed Justin various potential projects. I thought Justin might like Girls of Texas (V5). It was short and crimpy, and since I had gotten it second go a few years ago, I was excited to see how Justin would do on it. He was close but couldn't quite latch the crux hold.

On day two, we were all REALLY tired and pretty much just loafed around New Meadow. The next day was a rest day... KRISTOFF'S COFFEE!

Then we went on a tour to East. I finally got Warm Up Roof (V4). I had previously thought it was so hard for a V4, but then I realized that I had been trying the V7 variation. I almost got Crispy Critters (V8) on my second go, but then I missed the big slopey jug by just a little bit and managed to find a sharp little spike. I came down and was getting ready for another attempt, but I smelled blood. Of course the sharp little spike took a pea-sized chunk out of my fore-finger. Awesome: peace out slopers!
We went on down to Hobbit area. I got back on Hector in a Blender (V7), and was sticking all the moves pretty easily. It took me quite a few painful goes, but it felt so easy when I finally topped it out. After that we rolled on over to the Dragonfly area. I sent that thing once a coupla years ago, but it's so pumpy for me! I haven't gotten up it since. I did onsight Rembrandt Pussyhorse (V4), with my Butthole Surfers shirt of course. Justin sent it too. We both felt like it was a pretty soft grade for the climb. While we were there, our guide Andy Klier saw some guys over by the Aircraft Carrier and Wanda went out to get them. They weren't climbers, so we don't know what we were doing there.

We finished the trip with one last day on North. I got soooo close to Pumped Full of Semen (V9) again. I pulled up to the V1-ish top out and dropped off TWICE. If only I had moved my foot! Since I had thrown so many times on Hector the day before, I was running low on skin for sharp crimpers, so I didn't have many goes in me:( We were debating about whether or not to leave, when Justin expressed interest in Girls of Texas. We went back over there and he sent it first try of the day. So we ended on a happy note. We ran into Rob at the bottom of the chains on the way out, which was nice, since he's moving back to Arkansas and won't be around the Tanks as often. We packed up the car and drove all night to get home.

After driving 17 of the 22 hours, and sleeping for maybe 2, (again), I got ahold of my girlfriend Laura. She cooked me an AMAZING vegan welcome home dinner.

Okay, so we took the picture before I left. I looked way worse when I got back. Here's the link to the video.

Spring Break '08

Tuesday, April 08, 2008

Hueco Tanks Winter Break '08

So I was in a band pretty much full time (John Henry and the Engine), but they gave me ten days off to get down to El Paso and destroy my body. I went with my roomate Tuesday and our friend Duncan.

This trip was really important to me. While I was down there, I realized that as much as I loved the dudes in my band, I really didn't have time for it anymore, and they needed a more professional bass player anyway. I could play everything just fine, but all the out of town shows we were playing didn't really allow me to get much fruitful math research done. So it was a good parting of ways. Their CD release party is in a few days. I'm glad to have been a part of it.

So a few tidbits... I almost sent Hi Pro Glow(V6), but I dropped off of the penultimate jug due to fatigue. I also got pretty close on Pumped Full of Semen(V9). My big sends for the trip were Brutus(V5), and Daily Dick Dose(V7). I resent Lobster Claws(V5) really easily, which made me feel pretty good. It was my first V5 a few years ago, and it was really hard back then, but this trip it was pretty easy.

Duncan sent Hobbit in a Blender(V5) and Wiccicala Cave(V5), the latter of which was a long-standing project for him. Tuesday sent Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive(V2), which was her trip project, and my favorite thing in the whole universe.

We also went to the Mushroom Boulder Closure informational meeting, and learned a lot about Park policies on closures. Duncan and I bought some local art at Kristoff's Coffee shop (which is the bomb for a rest day!) and somehow managed to watch "Game Plan" starring The Rock at the Montwood dollar theater. If I remember anything else, I'll let you know.

There are two videos on youtube:

Short Video
Long Video

The shorter one has music that I made for the soundtrack, but the longer video has Dragonforce and Tom Waits.

What am I?

Hey there! I've been putting up bouldering vlogs on youtube for a while now, and I figured it was time to get to some explanations of what's going on out there. I'll occasionally pepper in some stuff about music and mathematics, which are my other major time fillers. Here's an OLD video with some silly Southern Illinois and Horse Pens bouldering. The HP40 stuff is Moms (V2) onsight, Swirly (V4) onsight, Beach (V4) flash, and Green Lantern (V4) onsight.

Not on the video:

Hammerhead (V5) I was close to sending it, and had pretty much given up. It was painful and not much fun at that point. But then Nancy, my then girlfriend, sent it... So of course I got it next go. No matter how much I try to not be competetive, it just happens.

Wasteland (V5) This was rated V7 when I sent it, but it really didn't feel hard at all. I got it third try. I think it's cuz I'm tall. What's rad is how bad the slopers look on the lip, but how good they feel.

I also sent Crisifix (V4), which was then rated V5. It also felt soft for the grade. I typically think downgrading stems from egos, but in both of these cases, I felt like the new grades are more accurate.

The music is of course, poopdeth. Sorry for the bad quality. We recorded in my basement.

Old Video